Last day of the Arctic coast section of our ride today. Had a choice today – long 75k ride or shorter ride coupled with a ferry. Took the latter option, feeling slightly guilty at first, but so glad that we did. We started with the shorter,fairly flat 30k ride south to Stokmarknes where we boarded the Hurtigruten steamer for the 3 hour journey through the fjords to Svolver. A huge cruise ship carrying both tourist commuters and cruise passengers over 9 decks. Vey steady compared to the small car ferries we have been using.

Truly magnificent scenery -we rugged up and sat out on the top deck with peaks towering over us on either side.

Final dinner with our riding tour buddies tonight with us all heading off in different directions tomorrow.

Long day on the road today -68km, reasonably flat to undulating mostly along wetlands skirting the fjords.

While the terrain wasn’t challenging the elements were. Light rain and high winds all the way – maximum temperature a freezing 5 degrees. However, looking like Mitchellin Men with three layers of merino, a puffer jacket AND our wind/waterproof pants/jackets gloves and scarves, we managed to ride at speed and stay warm. We knew we must look a sight when tourists in camper vans stopped to take our photo. One of the locals told us later that most Norwegians touring on bikes in the summer do so in the night as the weather is warmer…… good to know….

A couple of gems today – a beautiful little gallery run by a local artist (painter and jeweller). Wonderful mixed methods paintings (oil, crayon & ink) and charcoal drawings. Came away armed with postcards of his work, his web address and a beautiful new pair of silver earrings.

The other find (life saver) was a cosy cafe serving fresh Norwegian waffles with cloudberries and whipped cream. Cloudberries are an orange/brown berry, much like raspberries in shape and texture but very different taste – colour not all that appealing but tasted magic with the cream. Gave us the shelter and sustenance we needed to brave the cold again.

In the cafe we met a young Swiss family who had just been on the car ferry we travelled on 2 days ago- the ferry had o turn back as rough seas (6m swells) had thrown the cars around in the hold- very glad that we and our green machine were spared that one.

Arrived at our hotel late afternoon very excited to find that not only did we have our own bathroom but it also had a bath in it!!! Blue cheese sandwiches, Gatoraid, hot coffee and a steaming hot bath – smiling on the inside and out!

Distance: 46.5km, dead flat and wind assisted (we flew)
Set off from our little seaside hotel in bright sunshine. Local bike store was fruitful in replacing bike tools someone who shall remain nameless dropped irretrievably into a rock crevice as we got on the ferry.

We made a short stop at the Nordic Space Centre on the outskirts of Andenes which was very interesting. Norway has an active space program and claims to lead the world in space communications. They certainly present their science in an accessible and engaging way.

Today we moved away from the fjords and followed the coast of the Norwegian Sea south, and man did we know we were in the Arctic. Blowing a gale (fortunately from behind us most of the time) and freezing- even David was wearing multiple merino layers.
The road would around the coast with sheer cliff face on one side and broad sandy beaches on the other.

As the day went on the clouds came lower and lower with us eventually riding through fog- time to break out the high-vis vests.

Like in Oz, grey nomads are everywhere in the remote areas – we have learnt to allow them a wide berth as they power down the roads in their massive motor homes with little understanding of just how wide their vehicles are.

Learnt a lesson in arctic mechanics today- the oil on our chains has started solidifying in the cold making them seize- note to selves- carry oil canister with you at all times- all greased up ready to go tomorrow with a much longer ride ahead of us.

Tonight’s B&B very welcoming and (most importantly) warm. Our hostess is cooking us halibut for dinner (the Norwegians are succeeding in making David a fish eater).

Bit of a lazy day today. Slept in until 9 – the latest we have slept in since we’ve left Melbourne We stayed up to see the midnight sun (me) and the 1.30am sun (David) in a hope of seeing the midnight sunset which is apparently fleeting but spectacular. No luck, sadly it did not come out.

At breakfast we had our first sample of Norwegian brown cheese, which is out of this world – firm goats cheese with a caramelised flavour- will be a regular breakfast feature from now on.

Was hard to leave our decadent accommodation on the little island of Hamn, but we left none the less. Just a short ride today (told it was 18km but actually only 12) to Gryllefjord to catch the ferry to Andenes.

Gryllefjord is a sleepy little town but thankfully has one rustic cafe which we sat in as long as we possibly could as it was sooooo cold once we had stopped riding.

Having already eaten our picnic lunch we felt compelled to have the Norwegian waffles with strawberries, cloudberries and yoghurt to justify our continued occupation of our table- yum!!!! It’s a tough job but someone had to do it.

Having stayed in the cafe much longer than was polite we delved into out panniers, added an extra layer of thermals each and set off for the ferry.

Very rough crossing- opted for freezing on the deck rather than going green inside. After one hour forty of heavily rolling seas we were glad to find our land legs again.

Long walk (about 1km) with bikes AND bags (carter dropped bags at ferry) to find that after we checked in the rooms that we were actually staying in were back near the docks- so we definitely earnt tour dinner- or David did lugging the two big cases while I pushed the bike.

We seem to have left the bad weather behind- bright sunshine here- so about to do some much needed washing and go in search of dinner.

Wonderful things about bike breaking down:
Met so many lovely people who went out of their way to help us
Got to see lots more of the countryside- albeit from the inside of vans, that we wouldn’t otherwise have seen
We missed riding through the longest tunnel of our trip (which was 2.4km uphill)

Well, what an adventure we had today. Set off down to town early as the hostel manager had contacted a Norwegian champion cyclist in a neighbouring village who though he might be able to repair our bike. Only 5km away but with only the two hardest gears working we glided down hills and walked up hills (fortunately there was more down than up). Both he and his wife were lovely, and he did indeed identify the problem (sheared sprocket carousel – from impact in flight that had taken a day or so to dislodge…sigh). A call to a bike mechanic to check they had parts, and to a man in a van and 80km later and we were in Finnseness (a comparably large town in the exact opposite direction we were supposed to be heading).
We sat in (warm) coffee shop across the road while the bike mechanic (my new hero) replaced the parts.

Another one hour ride with another man with another van and we were in Hamm.

Tonight’s accommodation is nothing short of incredible. Self contained apartment set on a small cove on a tiny island. Beautiful room, beautiful views. We know we should drag ourselves out to explore but at the moment are lying like vegetables on the lounge watching the world go by.

Distance travelled: 53km
Tunnels: 3 (longest 920m)
Breakdowns: 1 (of bike not us)

After an expansive breakfast buffet we set off round 9am to cover the 10km to the 10.15 ferry from Brensholmen to Botnhamn on Senja (the second largest island in Norway). The ferry ride was spectacular made even more magical by the appearance of a pod of whales (Springer Whales) which mesmerised us all.

While not quite as long a ride as yesterday the hills were much more challenging- long steady inclines, often several kilometres long – we will have thighs of steel by the time we get home…..in the mean time we are just in a world of pain.

Travelling along the edge of the fjords tunnels were also regular features today. Three tunnels- one long and two relatively short – all wide and well lit, but curved. This made it was very disconcerting when cars entered the tunnel as you could hear them but couldn’t tell which direction they were coming from until they were nearly upon you. Not my favourite moments of the day.

We passed through numerous little fishing villages along the way, many with net enclosures (pools) in the shallows- which we later found were for farming shrimp.

After a day of big climbs, just 1km from our destination our derailleur malfunctioned meaning that the bike will only function in the hardest gears. So the fun began- within seconds word got round the village that two Aussies (old farts?) on a tandem needed bike repairs. While there is no bike mechanic in these parts the hotelier and the local car mechanic concurred that the derailleur needs professional attention. So word came to us at the hotel that a man with a van will pick us up at 9am tomorrow and take us to another village where there is ‘someone’ who is qualified for the task.

Spending tonight in my first ever experience of a youth hostel- packed to the rafters (only accommodation in town), immaculately clean, great food but paper thin walls and of course the joy of sharing a bathroom with about 20 randoms

Only my iPhone pics today – insufficient internet here to upload Davids high res images

Distance travelled: 64km (40km moderately undulating; 10km blissfully downhill; 10 km punishingly uphill)
Weather: 8 degrees C; everything except snow.

Set off round 9 for the first day of our adventure in misty rain. A bit of tricky traffic to negotiate for the first couple of km (especially fun give we were riding on the other side of the road) but once out of Tromso we travelled on either designated bike paths or quiet (ish) roads.

Our route largely followed the coast skirting fjords – which made navigation a breeze.

Spent the whole day feeling like we were part of a National Geographic shoot and pinching ourselves that we should be so lucky to be here – Scenery was wild and spectacular- crystal clear glacial green waters reflecting spectacular snow topped mountains, with quaint waterside cottages. Made the enormous climbs worthwhile- even in rain/hail, this place is incredible.


Once the sun showed its face, colours transformed

Had a couple of close encounters with reindeer along the way – with herds coming down from the mountains for the grass where snow has thawed. No bears thank goodness!

A few of the challenges today:

Sommaroy is an old fishing village – pretty, but also lots of oil and construction. – only one hotel and we are in it. Meeting up with a US and British couple for dinner who are travelling the same route.

David reading maps for tomorrow – in hostel type accommodation tomorrow so not sure if we will have wifi access for blogging.

Max temp: 6 degrees C
Rain: all day, but we now know our coats really are waterproof.

Slept like babies las night- first full night’s sleep since arriving in the land of the midnight sun- must be getting used to sleeping in the light (phew).

Set off early to the the local bike mechanic, who doubles as motorbike mechanic (and many other things from the look of his workshop). He was just as excited to see us as we were him- he keeps a list of all the brands of bikes he’s serviced over the last 30 years- while we were not the first tandem, he did get to add a new brand to his garage wall.

Took some time to fix the wheel which had been skewed in flight (so much for fragile stickers). After a quick ride round the block to get used to riding on the wrong side again we scurried back to escape the rain (at least until tomorrow).

Spent much of the afternoon in the polar museum – a bit like Melbourne Aquarium only colder. Some fabulous films about the Northern Lights (which of course we won’t get to see on this trip) and arctic wildlife etc.

Couldn’t resist going back to our little pub for dinner for another tapas feast.

Panniers are packed ready to set off first thing tomorrow, wet weather gear is laid out ready (hoping this will mean we won’t need it), and David is poring over the maps hoping we get at least the first few turns right.

Both we and our luggage arrived in Tromso last night, which was a small miracle given airline industrial action meant our flight to Oslo left over an hour late and we missed our connecting flight as our luggage was still on the previous plane.

Flew up north with literally a whole plane full of professional photographers and scientists who all seemed to know each other- so we knew we were in for something special and we weren’t disappointed.

Tromso itself is a quaint little town, almost 300 years old but mostly post WW2 as the Germans raised it to the ground to leave nothing for the Russians.

This tiny town is set on an enormous port, skirted by snow capped alps. Eight months of year in total darkness, 2 (now) in 24 hour light and 2 in transition.

The town jumps all night and has more pubs per capita than anywhere in Norway. We opted for one that wasn’t showing soccer (aka was less wild) for a dinner of seafood tapas for me (halibut, king prawns, scampi, cheeses & eggs that had clearly come from a very small birds bottom), and reindeer sausages for David (who seems to be eating his way through Santa’s sleigh).

Assembled most of bike before bed. A broken spoke or two that we will need to sort today (befriended local bike mechanic online before coming) but otherwise seems to be OK – but will feel more confident once we have a ride. We start our tour on Monday.

Sitting in the airport lounge waiting for flight to Norway. Long delays due to airline strike (no- these things don’t just happen in Oz) so have a bit of time to sum up up our last week.

WE LOVED STOCKHOLM!

Such a beautiful, lay back city- FABULOUS food, amazing history, friendly people, sooooo easy to get around – such a walkable city and endless daylight in which to do it.

Three days in inspiring conference for me since last post while David ‘did the town’ to its fullest.
Highlights:
Nobel museum
Day trip out in the archipelago to Sandhamn (David)
Abba museum (shamefacedly me)
Vasamusset
Gordana restaurant (David, me, work buddies and anyone who is anyone in Stockholm)
A city that should be on everyone’s bucket list….